Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

 I have always been a big fan of Mondavi’s Cabernets.  Their grace, complexity and restrained power convinced me that Napa Valley could produce Cabernets that rival wines from anywhere.  Sadly, to my mind, their recent renditions have veered from that style to one that has embraced the powerhouse Napa Cabernet mold.  Their 2010 Oakville bottling, a bruising wine filled with dense black fruit flavors, is all muscle.  Its 15%-stated alcohol is apparent in the finish as a blast of heat.  Mind you, it will fit right in a noisy steakhouse with robust slabs of chargrilled beef.  But I hope they turn down the volume in the future so you can hear the notes that I know are there.