Roberto Sarotto, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2019

 This is wonderfully open and aromatic for a Barolo from this vintage, and flavorful and accessible in texture too — at least for now.  Nebbiolo from Piedmont’s Langhe region can open and close as capriciously as red Burgundy, but let’s not look a gift horse in the mouth:  This is delicious now, which makes it a way better buying choice than wines that are tight and tough that one must hope will open at some point.  Complexity is always the prime virtue in these wines, but this also shows some depth and substance.  Sourced from an MGA or “cru” in Novello, this shows a very nice combination of balsamic and fruity notes, but nothing obvious or too overt at any stage in the sensory progression.  This was well grown, smartly picked, minimally manipulated, and deftly aged.  Hard to ask for more than that.