Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2020

 Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority who has forgotten more about Italian wines than I know, says in Barolo:  Terroir, Grapes, Crus, People, Places (2022), “I think Rocche Dell’Annunziata is one of Barolo’s best vineyard areas, a true Grand Cru if there ever was one.”  Rocche Costamagna’s rendition shows the elegance of wines from La Morra, home to this vineyard.  A pale color is misleading, as the wine packs plenty of character, especially as it sits in the glass.  It displays a graceful austerity — it’s not a massive brooding Barolo — with prominent supporting tannins.  Youthful, to be sure, the next day it had evolved and expressed itself with an alluring red fruit and earthy mixture.  It is an excellent choice for the cellar.