The premier sparkling wine producer in California has just recently released this, their very first vineyard designated offering. As you might expect, it is a winner on all fronts, and it is a slight departure from the usual house style that has brought the label to such prominence. The hallmarks are here of course – a fine, creamy mousse, with beautiful perlage in the glass, bold aromas and flavors – but the stylistic difference comes from the doságe level. This is noticeably drier than the regular non-vintage or vintage L’Ermitage offerings, and it is a welcome addition to the portfolio. It renders the regional apple character found in the other wines in a more austere fashion, allowing more palate real estate to subtle cherry fruit, stony mineral and toasted croissant notes. I suspect that winemaker Arnaud Weyrich, the driver behind the estate’s success, has wanted to offer a “grower” sort of wine for a while, but also wanted to wait for the perfect opportunity. Well done! Contains 76.8% Pinot Noir and 23.2% Chardonnay.
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) 2020
By Rich Cook