For years, Rombauer Cabernets reminded me of a Bordeaux Left Bank third-growth red that often performed like a Super Second at a lesser price. As was the case with Lynch-Bages in Pauillac, the wines were always solid performers at reasonable prices, the kind of wines you could use as the meat-and-potato section of a wine cellar. They still can be, but this one, which is certainly nice enough to drink, still seems to under-perform. It is a lean mixture of red-and-black fruits, often a less-than-favorable omen for Napa Cabs, with light tannins and a smooth finish. But it lacks complexity and gravitas, and that leaves me a little surprised, though not enough to keep from hoping the next vintage will be better.
Rombauer Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
By Roger Morris