Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)

There’s insipid Pinot Grigio and then there’s the real thing, like this one from Ronchi di Manzano, which made the varietal so popular. Unlike so many industrial renditions of Pinot Grigio, this one has weight and an enticing earthy accent to its bright and lively fruity component. Yes, you could sip it as an aperitivo, but it has the necessary depth to accompany linguine and clam sauce, for example.
92 Michael Apstein