Rudi Pichler, Wachau (Niederösterriech, Austria) Ried Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd 2023 ($70, Winebow)

Weingut Rudi Pichler ranks among the best in the Wachau, noted for pure and precise expressions of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner wines. The Ried Kirchweg (“Church Way”) lies along the path to the local church and overlooks the Danube at the base of the Hochrain hill. The well-drained soils here are a mix of decomposed gneiss and alluvial sediments. The exposure is excellent and the results are impressive. The 2023 vintage is pure, fresh and minerally-clean with aromas of lemon, lime and green apple fruit interwoven with subtle elements of citrus peel, apricot, flowers and herbs. The flavors reflect the nose with pure citrus and stone fruit, herb and floral elements and a satisfying textural richness on the palate. The long finish is crisp, dry and ethereal with delicate fruit and floral nuances dancing around the wet-stone mineral core. Intriguing and delicious now, it will last for another decade and beyond.
96 Wayne Belding