Really convincing Pinot Noir for $20 or less may be the toughest purchasing challenge in the world of wine. Bourgogne Rouge is about all that can be had from Burgundy at this price, and most of the wines you get at this level are thin and hard. By contrast, New World renditions at this price are all too sweet and chunky, lacking the delicacy for which pinot Noir is properly sought in the first place. With this as background, the fact that Saint Clair has released two excellent Pinots at this price is quite remarkable. This “Vicar’s Choice” bottling is the lighter of the two, with softer red tones to the fruit and a lovely subtle sweetness that makes is a great stand-alone sipper as well as a fine partner for lightly spicy fish or poultry dishes. I hold a slight preference for the straight Saint Clair 2009 Pinot, but few restaurants or retail stores are likely to stock both wines, and if this is the only one you see, grab it.
