San Fabiano, Chianti (Tuscany, Italy) 2008

 The highest quality designation in Italian wine law is DOCG, short for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita.  DOCG status has been granted left and right in Italy recently, and when simple Chianti was granted this designation, I confess that I dismissed it as a classic case of grade inflation.  Tasting this wine has made me second-guess myself, as this shows impressively concentrated, deeply flavored fruit that nevertheless remains focused by fresh acidity and structured by very fine-grained tannin.  Savory and even meaty in character, this is undeniably delicious and admirably complex.  Chianti, I take it all back.