San Felice, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Chardonnay “In Avane” 2022 ($33, Total Beverage Solution)

It is tempting for producers making Chardonnay or Pinot outside of Burgundy to claim that their wines show a “Burgundian” style, which I know because I’ve probably heard a thousand producers make the claim. In this instance, I’m the one drawing the comparison, which is well founded. This is medium-bodied and leaning toward the lighter end of that moderate range, with very appealing oak-derived notes that build a bouquet with scents of roasted nuts, baking spices, and very subtle toast. The aromas that are conspicuous by their absence are ones recalling vanilla, clove, caramel, or butter—any of which would belie any “Burgundian” characterization. Fresh acidity energizes the subtle flavors of modestly ripened peaches and apples, with these fruit notes nicely interwoven with the oak accents in the finish. If you like your Chardonnays with all that butter and vanilla, my score will seem high to you. By contrast, if you love white Burgundy, you might miss a bit of minerality in this, but I bet you’ll love the overall profile.
93 Michael Franz