Pugnitello, a grape whose name means “little fist” based on the appearance of the bunches, is a relative newcomer to Italian wine, having been studied and developed by San Felice in the 1980s. So, it is not surprising that their rendition should be outstanding. The weighty 2020, a combination of dark cherry-like fruit and appealing earthy minerality, makes it a robust red, but with unexpected grace. It’s a terrific choice now for hearty wine fare.
San Felice, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) Pugnitello 2020
By Michael Apstein