San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Terre di San Leonardo” 2020 ($20, Vias Imports)

San Leonardo, an outstanding producer in Trentino, makes a stunning Super-Trentino bottling of the same name from the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère. In the late 90s and early 2000s, about the same time that they realized what they always thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère, they were replanting Cabernet Sauvignon. Those new vines were too young to produce the quality they wanted for the flagship San Leonardo, so in 2005 they created what their colleagues in Bordeaux and elsewhere had done, a second wine, Terre di San Leonardo. In addition to grapes from young vines, they use grapes from more established plantings that for whatever reason don’t make the cut to be included in San Leonardo. While still Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy (50%), the proportion of Merlot has increased to 40% while Carmenère accounts for the remainder. The graceful mid-weight 2020 Terre, with its fine tannins, is a delight to drink now, conveying a seamless combination of light red fruits accented by earthy components. It’s a bargain-priced way to be introduced to the grandeur of San Leonardo.
90 Michael Apstein