San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Villa Gresti di San Leonardo” 2019 ($40, Vias Imports)

Starting with the 2000 vintage, San Leonardo began another wine called Villa Gresti, a blend of Merlot (90%) and Carmenère. While the 2019 is still Merlot-dominant (60%), the blend has changed, incorporating Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Carmenère. The bolder and riper Villa Gresti is a dramatic counterpoint to the more refined and elegant Terre di San Leonardo, displaying rich mineral-y nuances atop a suave base. Similar to the flagship San Leonardo, Villa Gresti exhibits impeccable balance and enlivening Italian acidity. It’s lovely now with hearty winter fare or a simply grilled steak. A bargain for what it delivers, it would be twice the price if it carried the name of a famous appellation.
94 Michael Apstein