Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2016

I firmly believe that Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini is among the world’s greatest white wines, and I seek it out at every opportunity.  That being the case, I really don’t know how this one managed to escape my attention until now, but I am certainly glad to have finally encountered it.  This rendition from the 2016 vintage shows the two key elements that Santorini Assyrtiko needs to fulfill its mission, namely, very fresh acidity, plus intense mineral notes in this finish to display the wine’s unique place of origin.  To those two elements, this adds truly exceptional concentration, achieving medium-plus body with an abundance of rich fruit.  Yet I employ the term “rich” simply as a descriptor of the wine’s mouth-feel, not its overall impression, which is energetic despite all of its breadth and substance on the palate.  Absolutely terrific juice.  Buy on sight.