Though rarely seen these days, Charbono can be an extraordinary wine. Tim Slater who owns Sarah’s was fascinated by it and produced his first in 2007 from a neighbor’s vines. He then planted one acre and since 2018 makes one entirely from that vineyard. This 2018 was aged 18 months in French oak, 10% new. Well, that extended aging apparently tamed the beast because from its inky black color to its long vibrant finish, this is a show stopper. Cranberry and blackberry fruit fragrances with back notes of cola and thyme lead to a generous, rich palate. The tannins remain in the background and there’s plenty of acidity to add length to the finish. Leaving the debate about Charbono’s background to the experts, this rendition from Sarah’s Vineyard leaves you wondering why it remains relatively obscure.
Sarah’s Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Charbono 2018
By Norm Roby