Sartori, Rosso Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) 2010

Though made entirely from Corvina Veronese, the most prized grape of Valpolicella, and grown in the mandated area, Regolo can not be labeled Valpolicella because Sartori uses the ripasso method — combining the wine with the lees of the prior year’s Amarone, adding yeast and starting another fermentation — which is prohibited by DOC regulations. The second fermentation runs for about three weeks and creates an extra percent of alcohol and, more importantly, much more flavor. Think of it like a Valpolicella on steroids. Andrea Sartori emphasizes that you must use “wet” lees that contain some residual sugar to nourish the yeast. Otherwise, the method is akin to using a tea bag twice. The 2010 Regolo reflects the stature of Corvina Veronese and the elegance of Sartori. A powerful wine, there’s considerable grace in the finish. It would be a good choice for a hearty roast this winter.