Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2021

 This great estate slipped over a period about two decades ago, but the renaissance that started a dozen years ago (or so) is clearly still running strong.  This shows fine palate weight without seeming remotely heavy, which is the weird-but-true paradox of fine Riesling.  Similarly, it is clear when tasting analytically that there’s quite a lot of residual sugar in the wine, and yet it isn’t obviously sweet because the fresh acidity balances out the sugar with great effectiveness.  Poached peaches and baked apples are descriptors conjured by the aromas and flavors, with citrus acidity cleansing the finish and encouraging another sip.