Skalli, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) 2009

The problem, really the only problem, with Cotes-du-Rhone is that it can be anything. Skalli’s Les Rabassieres resides in the upper echelon, where the wines have more substance. It is heavy on Grenache at 60 percent, with the remainder of the blend given to Syrah and Mourvedre. This was a superb vintage in the Rhone Valley, with a late-summer heat wave that pushed the grapes to full ripeness heading into the tricky fall weeks of harvest. The wine exhibits lovely aromas of sweet red fruits such as raspberry, currant and strawberry, with a hint of spice, and savory notes of dried herbs and garrigue. It is full and supple in the mouth, with sweet, smooth tannins and good balance despite palate weight that might surprise. For the money, one of the most compelling value reds I’ve tasted this year.