Stags’ Leap Winery, Stag’s Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Petite Sirah 2012

 On rare occasions I indulge myself in that California oddity, Petite Sirah. Typically it is hard as nails when young (though that model seems to be changing) and lacking in the subtle complexities and overall elegance that make Cabernet Sauvignon, and increasingly Pinot Noir, the money red grapes in California. When I choose not to shun Petite, it’s usually with good reason. And the best reason I can think of is the Stags’ Leap Winery Petite that has been by far California’s finest Petite for at least the past 30 years, but probably longer. This wine — Ne Cede Malis Estate Petite Sirah — from this estate is nothing less than a national treasure. The 2012 vintage is a blockbuster that shouldn’t be missed providing you can lay your hands on a bottle. Fewer than 1000 cases were made. Rich and robust, with aromas of blackberry, black currant and dark cherry, it is well proportioned yet has elegance and nuance, such as the scent of violets and a hint of black pepper. It is, simply, a wine for the ages, unique to California, in fact unique to this particular property. There’s nothing else quite like it.