Steele, Lake County (California) Zinfandel 2016

 The vineyard behind this wine is a longstanding fruit source for Steele, and one kept around for obvious reasons.  There’s a concentration that comes with old head pruned, own-rooted vines that is irresistible, and this wine, though labeled varietally, is a field blend in the California tradition where many varieties were planted in a vineyard, and diseased vines were replaced over the years with hardier varieties.  This example gets at that complexity, with bright brambly character, menthol and easy fall spice carrying the day.  Living history.