Summers Estate, Napa Valley (California) Charbono 2009

Charbono was a popular planting in California during the early 20th century and went—anonymously–into a lot of red wine. There’s not much planted now, which is too bad because it makes a bold and gutsy, yet not overly flamboyant, wine. Summers Estate makes a particularly attractive one with velvety tannins and perky acidity. It’s a good choice for the grilling season.