Tasca d’Almerita, Contea di Sclafani (Sicily, Italy) 2008

 This impressive sparkling wine makes you shake your head in wonderment.   Here is a locale (the DOC of Contea di Sclafani is halfway between Palermo and Caltanissetta) where the climate is closer to that of Africa than Champagne.   By all rights, the wine should be heavy and maybe even sweet.  But it is neither.  It’s stunning.  Made entirely from Chardonnay, it’s creamy and suave without sharp edges.  Two years on the lees (dead yeast) undoubtedly contributed to its complexity, but its graceful profile is what captivates.  It’s a fabulous match for the “little fried things” so prevalent in Sicilian cooking.  But it also works extremely well with ravioli and a butter and sage sauce because its acidity cuts the richness while its creaminess amplifies it.