Tenuta Garetto, Colli Tortonesi DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso 2021

 This vintage of this wine is very close to the best rendering of the Timorasso grape variety that I’ve ever tasted, and though not a lot of them are out there (it was nearly extinct not long ago), I travel to Piedmont very frequently and have tasted the majority of those that exist.  A key to my enthusiastic rating is that I gave this a little time to breathe (it was wisely treated to a screw-cap closure) and also let it warm a bit after refrigeration (which greatly heightened its aromatic complexity and also broadened its initially tighter palate impression).  Once re-tasted after opening and resting for about 45 minutes, the wine was downright stunning in its intricacy and overall appeal, making me wonder if I’m a point too low with my score of 94.  The aromas are not pushy but they are still expressive, showing pure notes of fresh orchard fruits without too much ripeness as well as very faint floral accents.  The flavors provide the real fireworks, with a remarkably high ratio of palate impact to physical weight, which is really at the lower end of medium-bodied.  To be clear, that is a high compliment in my evaluation, as wines that deliver a lot of flavor with minimal weight are both rare and especially valuable (both in their own right and as partners for food).  Suggestions of barely ripe peaches or nectarines seem most prominent by analogy, but there’s also terrific acidity in this, with clear citrus character that seems almost impossibly cleansing in the finish for a wine with 14% stated alcohol.  This is a wine from a property owned by Gianni Gagliardo, rather more famous for Barolo wines but now making terrific Barbera from the Nizza appellation in addition to this phenomenal white.  Some critics in the USA will take a crack at the extremely heavy bottle used for this wine, whereas others will be puzzled about how it is even possible to buy such a bottle with threads atop its neck for a screw cap.  My take:  Timorasso can make great wine, and a producer who wishes to convey that with striking packaging is not to be faulted.  This is among the most exciting whites I’ve tasted in 2023.