Tenuta Luce, originally a joint venture between wine icons Robert Mondavi and Vittorio Frescobaldi, is now solely owned by the Frescobaldi family. Located in Montalcino and though it does make a Brunello, Tenuta Luce is distinct from Castelgiocondo, another Frescobaldi estate. Ironically, Tenuta Luce’s flagship, Luce, is not a Brunello, but rather an IGT Toscana, a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Umberto Frescobaldi, the current head of the family, once told me that the Merlot added weight to the Sangiovese. A broad, big-boned wine, the captivating 2019 Luce displays a seemingly contradictory balance of charm and flamboyance, which actually makes it approachable now. Chocolatey notes emerge and then disappear into a sea of black fruit and youthful tannins. Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh and prevents it from being heavy, despite its size. From my experience with Luce, it takes a decade of bottle age to show its stuff. But its flamboyance makes it fun to drink now as well.
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) 2019
By Michael Apstein