Tenute Bosco, Etna Rosso (Sicily, Italy) 2017

 This marvelous wine is already downright intricate in its complexity at seven years of age, and yet it is also abundantly structured with bright acidity and lots of fine grained tannin, so there’s no question that it is on a long-term trajectory beyond excellence and heading toward potential greatness.  Like top-shelf Volnay or Barbaresco, it delivers much more aroma, flavor, and staying power through the finish than seems possible in relation to its light physical weight, but that’s the miracle achievable by the world’s truly special lightweight greats, and this sure looks like one of them.  I know I’m belaboring the obvious when mentioning that it is expensive, but one is paying for very rare and old vines, and getting a wine that has few quality counterparts in its combination of fruit detail and minerality in this lightweight format.  Holy moly – what a wine.  If you are not prepared to pony up for this based on my recommendation, this producer’s “entry-level” Rosso is excellent at $45, and will give you some idea of what the “top shelf” offering is like.