Tenute Rubino, Brindisi DOC (Puglia, Italy) 2017

 Italy’s Adriatic coast has traditionally produced Vermouth and inexpensive blended wines, but as Tenute Rubino’s “Jaddico” indicates the bar has recently been raised.  This one is comprised of Negroamaro (80%) and Susumaniello (20%).  Tenuta Rubino is located in the lower south-eastern end of Italy, which includes the heel of the boot.  The word “Jaddico” itself refers to the rich vegetation found in this area.  This was a thriving viticultural region at least as far back as the first century BC, when the Phoenicians, followed by the Greeks, were in charge.  Until recently Puglia’s wines served primarily as blends for the region’s vermouth production but recent upgrades include a shift towards premium wines, with upgraded vineyard and winery practices now followed.  Tenute Rubino’s mix of guyot and bush-trained vines seem well suited to the area’s mild climate and to the sandy, calcareous soils along the coast of Brindisi.  The origins of Susumaniello, whose small, blue-black grapes are set in a large cluster, are not entirely clear although it has been associated with Sardinia for many centuries.  This is a versatile wine that pairs tastily with such fare as burgers and other grilled meat, chicken curry, lamb kebobs, and truffled risotto.