Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($36, Kobrand)

Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine. Perfectly balanced, displaying both cherry-like fruit accented by subtle earthiness, it is a delight to drink now.
93 Michael Apstein