Colli di Luni is one of the rare DOCs that span two regions, Liguria and Tuscany. Ignorance of regional boundaries is not surprising when it comes to DOCs because they are based on geologic distinctions, not political ones. Conventional wisdom is that Vermentino vines must be able to see the sea to make fine wines. These vines must have a fabulous view. This is my first experience with Terenzuola, but certainly will not be my last after tasting this stellar white. It has unexpected richness and depth for Vermentino without sacrificing any energy or verve. Though its texture and weight hold up beautifully against the savory combination of black pepper and bacon of spaghetti carbonara, it remains lively and refreshing. An attractive bite in the finish adds to its enjoyment. What a fabulous value, and just in time for summer.
Terenzuola, Colli di Luni DOC (Tuscany/Liguria, Italy) Vermentino 2018
By Michael Apstein