Terra Costantino, Etna Rosso DOC Riserva (Sicily, Italy) 2016

 Made predominantly from very old vines in site averaging 1,500 feet in elevation, this is a classic Etna blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio.  Organic and unfiltered, with a notable but still reserved dose of oak, the wine speaks much more of the site than cellar (and thankfully so… everybody has a cellar, but how many have 100+ year-old vines on an active volcano?).  Medium-bodied on account of its density, but really only lightly pigmented, this is sneaky in its seriousness because nothing is initially overwhelming: not the appearance, nor the bouquet, nor the initial flavors, nor the palate weight, nor the oak, nor the structure.  And yet, all of these aspects are excellent in their rather reserved way, as are virtuoso players in an orchestra, and this ends up seeming not only harmonious in overall profile, but also symphonic in its multi-dimensional complexity.  Although it is quite inviting in texture, thanks to silky tannins and reserved oak, this still has years to go before hitting its apogee, during which time its fruit will recede a bit and its minerality will become more prominent.  And as it has fruit to surrender while gaining in mineral complexity, the smart money will hold this one, though it doesn’t need holding.  A thing of beauty.