Fairly recent DNA testing shows that what is called Charbono in California is the same grape that is widely planted in Argentina, where it is known as Bonarda, and that that grape is actually from France’s Savoie region where it is called Corbeau. Or Douce Noir. While Argentina now has the majority of acreage of the variety, small plantings remain in California and France, including 1.5 acres in the Tofanelli family vineyard in Calistoga. But enough geek-speak — this wine is worth looking for. It’s jammy and full bodied, with aromas of leaf, plum, blueberry, fall spice and hard candy. It delivers the nose well on the palate, with good integration and food friendly acidity. A very interesting, rich, fruit forward wine with a long finish.
Tofanelli, Napa Valley (California) Charbono 2010
By Rich Cook