I love James MacPhail’s propensity for layered complexity in Pinot Noir across a range of styles. I’m sure he would argue that it has more to do with fruit selection and vineyard practice than it does with any hands-on methodology by him, but I would argue that it’s his hand management that gets it done — touching only when the fruit says so, and selecting barrels that will enhance what’s already there in the clonal selection. This is a master class in technique. The nose begins with dusty, dry earth mineral notes that give way to suggestions of deep cherry liqueur. The palate shows both promised aspects finely balanced and finishing long. That said, I would rest this a while for full integration of the oak. It will be worth the wait! This is a cellar trophy.
Tongue Dancer, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021
By Rich Cook