Torbreck, Barossa Valley (Australia) Semillon “Woodcutter’s” 2023 ($21, Delicato)

Don’t make the mistake of bypassing this wine because you assume (understandably) that Barossa wines are overbearingly huge (true of many of the appellation’s Shiraz wines) or that Semillon is thick and waxy (as many wine texts wrongly declare it to be per se). This is a fresh, medium-bodied rendition with lifted aromas and nicely balanced fruit recalling peaches, yellow melons, and apple pie filling. It is an ideal pairing for richer finfish dishes such as salmon or swordfish, but also terrific with poultry and especially valuable when white wine is desired to accompany white meats such as pork tenderloin or veal scallops. Consistently terrific, and very fairly priced.
93 Michael Franz