Tornatore, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2018

 Some wines excel by being splendidly delicious, whereas others distinguish themselves by being enduringly interesting, but very few young white wines achieve both of these feats at the level of this one.  On the delicious side of the equation, this is luxuriously rich and rounded in palate feel, with ripe flavors perked up by immaculately integrated acidity that shows itself more by freshening effect than overt tartness.  As for being interesting, this is arrestingly aromatic, with ripe fruit scents and lovely accents of herbs and grated citrus zest.  The fruit flavors recall tangerines and mandarin oranges, with marvelous purity suggesting that this was vinified from very lightly pressed juice.  The wine’s minerality contributes greatly to its interest, but in a subtly integrated way:  Those who want a real mineral kick in the pants would actually be better off buying this producer’s straight Etna Bianco, which isn’t as “fine” but is even more mineral and every bit as exciting.