Pinot Noir from Sicily might not seem to make much sense. After all, this Mediterranean island is famously hot, while Pinot remains a notoriously finicky because cool-climate grape variety. Sicily, however, is also mountainous, and there are plenty of (relatively) cool vineyard sites away from the coast. This particular wine thus does not taste heavy or jammy, but instead offers surprising lift and freshness. It won’t make you forget that treasured bottle of grand cru Burgundy, but for less than $15, it outperforms most basic red Bourgognes on the market.