Transcendence, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah 2009

Of the three new releases I recently sampled from Transcendence, the 2009 Syrah was by far the most impressive, with dense, complex layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit, well judged oak and excellent persistence of flavor through a very long, spicy finish. The tannins are sweet and supple. Although the stated alcohol tops 15 percent, which is usually a red flag, this wine is remarkably well balanced in this popular ripe style.