Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2010

Unfortunately, too many California Merlots don’t smell or taste like Merlot.  Too much Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot can obliterate the latter’s underbrush and black tea distinctiveness; allowing the grapes to get overripe does the same thing.  Yet here is a textbook Merlot, with black olive, dried herbs and oolong tea notes adding interest to the dark plum and berry flavors.  Medium-rich, smoky and with sturdy tannins, it has the structure to age for 15 years, yet is approachable now.  Leg of lamb, duck breast with a cherry or blackberry reduction sauce, and wild boar come to mind as perfect companions.