Umani Ronchi describes the San Lorenzo as the little brother of their flagship wine, Cumaro. And what a good little brother it is. Made entirely from Montepulciano, it conveys black cherry-like notes and an ever so subtle attractive bitterness in the finish. Ponderous, but not heavy or overwrought, it’s beautifully balanced. The tannins are perfectly polished which allow enjoyment now with winter fare. But don’t try it as a stand-alone aperitif.