Valduero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2014

 This is one of the largest and most venerable bodegas in the appellation, and though sheer size is often inversely correlated with quality, I was very impressed with the current red releases from Valduero.  Exceptionally impressive was the barrel work, as this address is home to a truly vast number of barrels, yet the oak is so well managed that each of the reds tasted as though it was tended by hand in an artisanal bodega.  This particular bottling is very rich and deeply flavored, easily counterbalancing the wood imparted by 30 months in barrel.  The texture is striking, and in more than one way, as the wine seems soft and almost “slippery” because the tannins are so fine-grained and well integrated, yet there is good grip in the finish to assure longevity as well as ability to stand up to robust foods.  Just as impressive is a very prominent streak of saline minerality that runs through the long finish.  Valduero makes a high-end “6 Años” bottling that sells for about $80 – $100, but notably less in Duty Free in the Madrid airport; I loved the 2012 and scored it at 96.  However, the value proposition for this wine is superior, and the 2014 was so delicious that I bought it from a Florida retailer as soon as I got back to my hotel room on the day I tasted it in Spain.