Sangiovese has had spotty success in California and this 2009 from Valley of the Moon highlights the problem with defining the fickle grape’s character. Blended with small bits of Syrah, Merlot and Barbera then aging for 18 months in French and Eastern European oak, the wine is pleasant, fruity and well structured, but it lacks the clearly defined juicy raspberry aroma and flavors that characterize Sangiovese. The flavors of this Sangiovese are big with drying tannins, tart acidity, 13.5% alcohol and a short finish. On the plus side, the price is right and the wine is pleasant and fruity.
Valley 0f the Moon, Sonoma County (California) Sangiovese 2009
By Gerald D. Boyd