Viña Jaraba, Vino de Pago DOP (La Mancha, Spain) 2020

 In terms of its physical properties and its flavor profile, this flagship wine from Jaraba doesn’t seem all that different from the wonderful “Selección Especial” bottling from the same 2020 vintage (which is an outright steal at $20).  And yet, tasted and re-tasted over the course of two days, this shows more class or “fine-ness” in every respect — aromatic complexity, depth and breadth of flavor and texture, quality of tannins and integration of wood, and more.  But the really impressive thing about this by comparison to the other wines in this producer’s phenomenal portfolio is that there’s nothing pushy about it, and there’s a nothing-to-prove self-confidence in the styling of the wine that I find very impressive (regardless of the fact that the styling was evidently not intended to impress).  As a result, my considered opinion is that this is ready to enjoy already (with food and a bit of aeration, but those are more advisable than required) but also capable of years of positive development.  Among the best values in all of Spain (which is saying something), this is also one of the dozen-or-so best $30 wines from anywhere in the world.