Viña Otano, Rioja DOC Gran Reserva (Spain) 2014

 All of the red Viña Otano wines show excellent continuity in style despite being sourced from different vintages and, in the case of the lovely Graciano, even different grape varieties, which is certainly indicative of skillful winemaking.  This is soft, open and modestly wooded but still recognizably regional in character, yet not dogmatically traditional.  There’s more evident spice and toast notes from oak than in the Reserva, as is appropriate at the Gran Reserva level, yet the balance with fruit is just right.  To be a bit more specific, the oak shows itself aromatically, but then seems to “step aside” to let the fruit take center stage on the palate, but then returns to take a bow as the wine finishes, firming up the aftertaste without foreshortening it.  One additional virtue is that the flavors are perfectly clean, with no hint of the oxidation or brett than can mar Gran Reservas from some other Rioja bodegas.  This is delicious already, and will only get better for the next decade.