Viña Otano, Rioja Gran Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) 2016

 This wine has been very good in every vintage I’ve tasted but I’m particularly enamored with this 2016, which shows marvelous balance in more than one respect:  It is ripe and generous in flavor, yet on the light-ish side of normal for it in terms of physical weight; moreover, it offers very open fruit flavors, but is also very savory and spicy, depending on which aspect one chooses to focus upon.  Its excellence is evident in the bouquet, flavors and finish, and the even-ness of its performance is a testament to the work that was done in both the vineyard and winery.  A second look 24 hours after first tasting it confirms all of the foregoing praise.  Rioja Gran Reserva is a challenging category for those new to Spanish wines, as there are barrel factories cranking out examples for $20 or less, but also magnificent wines costing $90 or more.  Good values and rip-offs can be found at every point in that range, but for novices, don’t give up:  Just rely on producer reputation which, as in Burgundy and in this case, will steer you to success.  This 2016 is ultra-classy, showing a new dimension almost every time one returns to the glass over more than a full day.