Viña Otano, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) 2017 ($27, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero)

This is insanely good Rioja Reserva for the money, and in broader terms, very few wines in this price range can compete with it on grounds of versatility, complexity, sheer deliciousness, and capacity for improvement coupled with immediate accessibility. That latter attribute of being enjoyable now is partly a function of a warm growing season in 2017, yet work in the cellar contributed as well. This is only very moderately oaky, and all of the barrel influence is positive already, lending spice notes and a hint of toast, but nothing overtly woody in the aromas or flavors, and virtually no wood tannins riding atop the tannin derived from the grapes. Moreover, the grapes were macerated and fermented in a moderate manner, resulting in a wine that is both generous and graceful—already. The blend is 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo, and the fruit profile shows dark cherries, red and black berries, and a hint of dark plums as well. Medium-bodied but very expressive in aroma and flavor, this would get along very nicely with a simple roasted chicken, yet would also be wonderful with grilled lamb chops. This producer took full advantage of the 2017 vintage—accessing all of its virtues while avoiding its potential pitfalls.
94 Michael Franz