Viña Otano, Rioja (Spain) 2009

This is a completely, gulp-ably delicious wine that also shows real complexity and class…for $22.  My first encounter with this Bodega included an excellent 2001 Gran Reserva and a very good 2011 Crianza, so we are off to a very good start.  Although I really do like the Crianza, $5 is a very small premium to buy up to this Reserva; likewise, $5 is peanuts to trade up to a Gran Reserva that is 8 years older.  So, this and the 2001 seem like the obvious wines to buy, and I actually like the two of them equally well, despite the fact that they are very different.  Thanks to a relatively warm growing season, this 2009 Reserva is very soft and immediate in its appeal, with lovely soft fruit and very broad texture for a five year-old Rioja Reserva.  Frankly, you could find plenty of Reservas from 2005 or 2006 that aren’t as open and seductive as this wine is right now.  Nevertheless, there’s a lot going on underneath all that soft fruit, with nice spice and smoke notes, as well as a subtle accent of cured meat.  This would be perfect with medium-weight dishes such as chicken, pork, duck or veal.