Has anyone noticed that more and more Petite Sirahs taste, well, if not actually “petite” at least fairly gentle these days? Modern tannin-management techniques have made what used to be a rough, muscular varietal much more accessible. The result, as evidenced by this very tasty example, is a wine that has sufficient heft but is no sense overwhelmed by its own structure. Instead, it offers bright fruit and savory, peppery spice, in a complete because delicious package. I tend to think that many contemporary developments in oenology have resulted in overly sweet, processed wines that lack the appeal of those made twenty-odd years ago. But I have to admit that what’s happened with Petite Sirah is a delightful exception. This wine proves the point.
Viña Robles, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah 2008
By Paul Lukacs