Virage, Napa Valley (California) 2010

Drop this vintage of Virage into a blind tasting and my guess is most wine enthusiasts, even the experts, would peg it for a Bordeaux. In that sense, Emily Richer’s "Right Bank" project is a mission accomplished. She has embraced the model of St. Emilion, where Cabernet is difficult to ripen and thus Merlot and Cabernet Franc rule, to produce a superb Bordeaux-style blend with two grapes that often don’t get the respect they deserve, especially in California. This vintage exhibits the telltale herbal, savory nuance of Cab Franc, but on the palate it seems the Merlot takes over with aromas of plum and red currant. There is a light touch of spicy oak and the tannins are firm, but this wine has every right to improve over the next decade or so. Well done.