In the 1980s, when most California wineries were still intrigued with 100% varietals, winegrowers and critics alike would describe a wine’s flavor as being “varietally correct” meaning this is the way a wine from this grape is supposed to taste. While there are core taste components to most grapes varieties, they are probably overshadowed in complexity by clones, terroirs and vineyard and winemaking processes. Which is a long way to get around to saying that we Americans continue to learn more and more about the different tastes of the green-fruit flavored grape, Grüner Veltliner. Here the green fruitiness is on a medium-bodied frame with intense green fruitiness but not lime green – fresh, crisp, well-structured and delightful.
Wieninger, Nussberg (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2021
By Roger Morris