WINE WITH…Baked Ziti

Some dishes are so iconic, so carved in stone (or perhaps pasta) that even minor changes to the basic ingredients turns them into something different–not bad necessarily, just different. For Americans of a certain age, baked ziti is one such dish. Like spaghetti-and-meatballs, another favorite item from the Italian-American repertoire of nostalgic gastronomy, baked ziti can be tricked out with all kinds of tasty embellishments. Add a drizzle of pesto? Sure. A layer of artichoke hearts? Go ahead. Pork belly? Yum. These are undoubtedly delicious additions, but any one of them changes the simple rustic character and straightforward flavors of baked ziti.

And yet, the temptation to add a tiny flourish of flavor can be irresistible, especially when one is seeking a dish that is not only true to its origins but that also offers elevated and more complex tastes that will make the ziti a wonderful companion to a broad range of wines. Eggplant might be a good addition, adding both subtle flavor and velvety texture, but in this instance we decided to go with olives.

Baked ziti bears a strong resemblance to lasagna but it is infinitely simpler to prepare, and it can be made several hours ahead of time and baked just before serving.

Baked Ziti

Serves 6

Preheat oven to 400°

One pound hot Italian sausage*
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon thyme
½ cup red wine
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
Salt and pepper
1 pound ziti
About 15-20 pitted green olives such as Castelvetrano**
1 pound fresh mozzarella, shredded
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Unless you are using bulk sausage, remove the casings and crumble the sausage. Place it in a large sauté pan, preferably nonstick, and brown the sausage, stirring frequently. Transfer it to a plate lined with paper towels to soak off the fat.

Discard the grease from the skillet and add the olive oil. Add the onion and cook until it is soft; then add the garlic and thyme and cook for another couple of minutes. Pour in the wine, turn up the heat and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the wine has been almost completely absorbed. Stir in the tomatoes and the cooked sausage and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile cook the pasta in plenty of salted water according to package directions.

When the pasta is done, drain it; then transfer it back to the cooking pot or to a large bowl, and add the sausage mixture. Stir the olives into the pasta (if they are large halve them).

Spread half the pasta mixture into a lightly oiled 9X13 inch baking dish. Sprinkle with half the mozzarella and half the Parmesan cheeses. Add the remaining pasta and top with the remaining cheeses. Drizzle the top lightly with olive oil for more intense browning. Transfer the dish to the oven and bake for 20-40 minutes or until it is sizzling and browned (if the dish has been assembled earlier and stored in the refrigerator it will take more time to cook).

*We prefer hot to sweet sausage as the heightened flavors play off red wine more agreeably.

**You could use Kalamata or other black or green olives, thought the taste will be different.