Wine With…Crab Cakes with Tarragon Aioli

In Baltimore, where we live, fresh crab is everyone’s favorite fare. Marylanders believe that the fastest way to reach gustatory nirvana is by banging whole steamed crabs with a mallet and picking out the meat, or simmering fresh crabmeat in a soup, or slipping a sautéed soft shell crab into a sandwich. But when there’s a special wine to be savored, crab cakes make the miracle match, especially when they’re garnished with a dollop of tarragon-spiked aioli.

Crab Cakes with Tarragon Aioli

Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as a first course

Preheat oven to 400°

For the Crab Cakes:

1 pound fresh lump crab meat
5 teaspoons panko or other fine breadcrumbs
2/3 cup mayonnaise
I teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 whole egg, beaten
1 dash Tabasco or 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil or olive oil

Pick through crabmeat to remove any bits of cartilage or shell. Add the breadcrumbs to the crab. In a separate bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, beaten egg, Tabasco or cayenne, and salt; then fold the mixture into the crabmeat.

Form the crab mixture into four large patties or six smaller ones. If possible, arrange the crab cakes in a single layer on a platter or sheet pan and let them rest in the refrigerator for at least an hour (this helps them firm up and keep their shape during cooking).

To cook, place butter and oil in a heavy ovenproof skillet over high heat. Sear the crab cakes for a couple of minutes on each side, then slide the pan into the preheated oven and finish cooking for about 5 to 7 minutes.

For the Aioli:
(May be made up to 24 hours ahead)

2-3 cloves garlic, finely minced or pressed
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
salt
1/2 to one cup olive oil
1 tablespoon each minced fresh tarragon and parsley

Place the minced garlic in a food processor or blender. Add the lemon juice and mustard, then the egg yolk and salt. With the motor running begin drizzling in the oil in a slow, steady stream, almost drop by drop. As the mixture begins to emulsify you can pour the oil in a little faster. It will probably take about ¼ cup of oil for the mixture to reach the appropriate mayonnaise consistency, but you can keep adding up to another half cup of oil. Turn the motor off, add the minced herbs, and pulse them into the aioli. Transfer mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.

Don’t despair if the mixture happens to separate, or fails to emulsify. Simply pour the mixture into a pitcher or other container with a pouring spout. Place another raw egg yolk into the blender or food processor bowl. With the motor running, drizzle the original mixture in drop by steady drop until it is clearly emulsifying, then continue adding it in a slow, steady stream.