WINE WITH…Steak and Choka (Spicy Tomato Sauce)

It was Valentine’s Day and we were trying for a sunny taste of Trinidad on a frigid evening here in America’s mid-Atlantic region. We had to improvise to make the Choka, which traditionally calls for good, ripe fresh tomatoes. Since it’s impossible to find anything resembling “good” tomatoes this time of year, we settled for canned. There was no question of venturing into the icy world outside our kitchen door to char tomatoes over a fire. Instead, we oven-roasted them until they were almost caramelized. But how to give the requisite smoky flavor? Smoked paprika to the rescue. Even without warm sun and a blue Caribbean ocean, dinner was delicious. And with some fancy wine to taste, romantic too.

Steak and Choka

Serves 2

The sauce may be made several hours or up to a day ahead.

One 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, slivered
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon ancho chile powder
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
2 tablespoons finely minced cilantro

One flat iron or skirt steak, grilled or pan-seared and sliced in strips about ½ inch thick.

Preheat oven to 400°.

Place the tomatoes in a strainer and drain them well. Spread them on a small, sided baking sheet and toss with about 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 10 minutes, then stir, pressing down on the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Return to the oven for another few minutes then stir in the onions and garlic. Return the pan to the oven for a few minutes, then stir and press again. Continue this process until the tomatoes are beginning to brown, about 35-40 minutes total.

Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients. Drizzle in another spoonful or so of olive oil and taste for seasoning. Serve hot or cold to accompany the steak.